Bugis Street Brasserie, London | Jay Rayner

A London hotel where Singapore Airlines’ crew go for a taste of home is worth checking out

Bugis Street Brasserie, Millennium Gloucester Hotel, London SW7 4LH (020 7331 6211). Soups and starters £5.50-£9; mains £8.50-£17; desserts £6; wines from £18

Good things can come from bad. The bad thing in this case was the hopeful but inevitably hopeless trip I made a couple of weeks ago to the Holiday Inn on London’s Cromwell Road. I went for dinner, a word I’d put inside quotation marks to indicate irony, if the whole damn thing hadn’t traumatised the wryness out of me. To recap, I was invited by the executive chef and thought it would be rude to decline; as it turned out, it would have been nowhere near as rude as the boiled egg they served as part of a caesar salad, which had a Shrek-green ring around the yolk through overboiling.

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