King of the castles: a cabin stay on Northumberland’s mighty coast

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In Alnmouth, new off-grid seaside huts make a great base for car-free exploring – whether you like your fortresses ruined or smartly kept

As night fell, a lighthouse beam caught my eye as it flickered across the sea from Amble. I folded away the seaside cabin’s mini-table, switched off the radio and stepped out on to the porch, waiting for my eyes to adjust to a night sky packed with stars. It was spellbinding. The north-east coast, with its castles, characters and legends, has magic everywhere, and miles of long beaches on which to contemplate it all.

My wife, Mim, and I had travelled by train to Alnmouth for a car-free weekend getaway, with the historic coastal village as our base (a 20-minute stroll from the station). We’d soon settled in, sitting on the cabin’s steps to drink tea and eat bacon rolls while listening to the sea, not crashing but idling. Within a few hours, a spell had been cast, and cares packed away, replaced by fresh air and relaxation.

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