Nigel Slater’s proper macaroon recipes

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These delectable almond cookies should be soft and plump, but never pink

Ask for a macaroon in 2019 and you will almost certainly be handed a macaron, a diminutive double-disc of light, crisp almond meringue in a shade of brilliant pink (raspberry or rose) or chic grey (liquorice or black sesame). They will be held together by the merest whisper of buttercream and arrive in their own fancy box. Camp as Christmas and sweet as a sugar cube, your little cakes will peep from their beribboned eau de nil coffin like a tiny, yappy dog poking its nose from a Chanel bag.

They do, I suppose, have a certain charm, especially those flavoured with vanilla or pistachio. But if I’m going to indulge in an almond cookie then I’d rather have a “proper” macaroon. The sort that used to come in a paper bag from the cake shop rather than a gift-wrapped box from a patisserie.

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